Toni Maticevski found a muse in his own grandmother this season—though these are not the vintage silhouettes or handcrafted embellishments you’d expect of such an inspiration. While going through her possessions after her death this spring, he found something surprising: a photograph of her in full flamenco regalia with a man’s blazer draped over her shoulders. The strange shock of her dancing past sent the designer into an exploration of the flou and flair of flamenco, paired against the rigor of menswear tailoring.
Review by Steff Yotka
The push-pull of ladylike couture shapes and sartorial traditions is what Maticevski thrives on—and is occasionally consumed by. Here, his penchant for frills was well deployed as a cascading hem on an electric yellow gown and in a saucy sheer lace dress with a tiered hem that he said will be sold with a slip (though savvy clients might consider it with just a bralette, briefs, and some dancing shoes). There were plenty of the outsize volumes Maticevski favors, too, from the sweet pouf sleeve of a polka-dot crop top to a less successful, enormous opera coat in a rich floral brocade.
As for the tailoring components, the extra-long trains and tricky corset-like belts didn’t evoke the freedom of flamenco—or the freedom of a modern lifestyle. A happy middle ground: a washed cotton trench in the burnt sienna shade of the Pampas. Sure, it was maybe a little more tango than flamenco, but it looked smart nonetheless.
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MATICEVSKI
RESORT 2019 COLLECTION
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Paris, France
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