“Peter Do flouts industry convention—avoiding the runway, presenting in Paris rather than in New York (where he lives), and hewing to the menswear schedule even though he’s making womenswear. His atelier is in Sunset Park, Brooklyn, a 40-minute subway ride from midtown Manhattan on good days. But all that hasn’t stopped the industry from embracing him. His label is less than two years old, and he counts Net-a-Porter, Dover Street Market, and Bergdorf Goodman as stockiest.
At Bergdorf’s, among the label’s agencies are The Row, Gabriela Hearst, and Daniel Lee’s new Bottega Veneta. (Lee and Do share an alma mater: Phoebe Philo’s Celine.) Those names, coupled with his designer icons, Helmut Lang and Martin Margiela, help paint a picture of what Do is about. He prefers the descriptor “clean” to “minimal,” and he’s focused primarily on tailoring, which is what he specialized in at FIT. His earlier collections featured pattern and color, but Spring is an exercise in black and white with pops of red and yellow.
The season’s hero piece is an adjustable jacket that separates into a bolero and a backless waistcoat. Another important item is the single-button jacket that fastens high and off-center on the torso, producing a nipped-in silhouette. The key pant shape is straight-legged and boyish—in fact, Do says he’s often fielding requests for men’s sizes—but he also showed a prodigious fuller-leg trouser in spongy black leather.”
Do may be measured in his approach to building his business, and there’s certainly a practical aspect to his output. Many of the Spring looks are finished off with a chrome card carrier with jeweled straps slung across the body. Do made one for himself for his ID badge at his Industry City studio, and now they’re his best sellers. But his aesthetic is the opposite of conservative. It’s a potent combination.”